All About Salt

We have all grown up using salt in our home cooking, adding it to meals at restaurants, or looking for substitutes because we have been directed by our physicians.  Well, when used properly, salt plays a key role as a preservative, flavor enhancer, ingredient in medicines and even used in manufacturing.  In ancient times, it was a form of collateral used in the barter of goods and services.  The word "salt" comes from the Latin word salarium, meaning salary.  In Roman times soldiers were partially paid in salt. 

Like so many things, salts have become "trendy."  There is Red Salt from Hawaii, Jurassic salt from Utah, and a multitude of sea salts from Europe.  How can we be sure that we are getting a good value for some of these salts and what is the best to use in our day to day cooking?  I'll try to help you understand the different types and kinds of salt, make my recommendation, then you be the judge. 

1.  Table Salt  -  This is a fine iodized salt best for baking.  It's crystals are small and don't dissolve well and because of this the taste will linger longer on the surface of the tongue.  Because of this some cooks find this type of salt very salty and harsh.

2.  Red Sea Salt  -  Hawaiian red and black sea salts are speciality salts primarily used as "finishing salts."  While they look cool their flavor can be a bit odd.  The red variety can tend to have an iron taste.  The black salt tends to have a sulfuric aroma from the addition of purified lava. 

3.  Sel Gris  -  Harvested on France's Atlantic coast, this gray salt is found in shallow basins flooded with ocean water.  Evaporation takes place between May and September and this salt is raked to the edge of each basin.  The salt picks up its color and flavor from minerals in the sea bed's clay bottom.

4.  Fleur de sel  -  This is a by-product of Sel Gris and is created when the winds are calm and days warm.  The gray salt actually "blooms" lacy, white crystals which are then skimmed from the surface.  Use this lovingly on foods just before serving, very pricey.

5.  Kosher Salt  -  This is a very granular salt.  The surface of each grain is so large that it causes it to dissolve easily and impart flavor without over-salting.  This is my salt of choice for most cooking.  You can't beat the price, it blends well and is clean tasting. 

If you begin to notice Salt, you'll discover many more types and kinds of salts.  Try your own experiment and find out which one you prefer from a taste, appearance and ease of use perspective.  Several years ago I participated in a "Salt tasting" and I can tell you that you will be able to discern the difference. 

Expensive salts are wonderful as finishing salts as their flavors are usually mild and their textures very crisp.  You will find that you can spend a considerable amount of money for these, so my recommendation is try Kosher Salt, at $.70 per pound it is an excellent value.

Bon Appetit!!

Mastering the Art of French Cooking

In my last post, I promised to review for you the Saute De Veau Marengo that I had chosen from Volume 1 of Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child. This recipe came from Volume One and all three of the Tres Gourmands, Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck, were shown as authors of this volume. Volume Two which is also pictured here, just shows Julia Child and Simone Beck. If any of you saw the movie Julie and Julia you might remember Julia and Simone trying to cut Louisette out of the book as she had really not done anything to contribute. At the end, Julia didn't have the heart to oust her, so she is shown as a contributing author.

The recipe I prepared last week was "simply devine," if I do say so myself. The flavors melded together like a wonderful orchestra perfectly tuned. The surprising ingredient was orange rind which is a secret jewel in the final product. I will be making this again for an upcoming dinner party changing some of the sides dishes but the lead act will be Saute De Veau Marengo. Following is the recipe
SAUTE DE VEAU MARENGO
(Brown Veal Stew with Tomatoes and Mushrooms)

The flavors of Provence go into this uncomplicated and hearty dish. Steamed rice or noodles go well with it, and green peas or beans. Serve a chilled rose wine or a strong, young, white wine. As with all stews, this one may be cooked in advance and reheated just before serving.

For 6 people

Preheat oven to 325 degrees
Ingredients:
3 lbs. veal stew meat cut into 2-ounce, 2 inch pieces
2-3 Tb olive oil, more if needed
A 10 to 12-inch skillet
A 4 quart fireproof casserole (oven proof)

Dry the veal on paper towels. Heat the oil in the skillet until almost smoking. Then brown the meat, a few pieces at a time, and arrange the browned pieces in the casserole.

Ingredients:
1 cup minced yellow onions
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
2 Tb flour
2 cups dry white wine

Lower heat to moderate. Brown the onions lightly for 5 to 6 minutes. While the onions are browning, toss the meat in the casserole with salt and pepper, then with the flour. Toss and stir over moderate heat for 3 to 4 minutes to brown the flour lightly. Remove from heat.

Add the wine to the skillet with the browned onions. Boil for 1 minute, scraping up coagulated saute juices. Pour the wine and onions into the casseerole and bring to the simmer, shaking and stirring to mix the liquid and flour.

Ingredients:
1 cup drained and strained canned tomatoes or tomato puree
1/2 tsp basil
1/2 tsp thyme
A 3 inch strip of orange peal 1/2 inch wide
2 cloves mashed garlic
Salt and pepper to taste

Stir the tomatoes into the casserole. Add the herbs, orange peel, and garlic. Bring again to the simmer and season lightly to taste. Cover and set in lower third of oven to simmer slowly for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is almost tender when pierced with a fork.

Ingredients:
1/2 lb. fresh button mushrooms or quartered larger mushrooms
Add the mushrooms to the casserole and baste them with the sauce. Bring again to the simmer on top of the stove. Then cover and return the casserole to the oven for 15 minutes more.

Remove casserole from oven. Skim the fat off the sauce, if there is any, and boil the sauce down until it is thickened and a rich reddish brown. If too thin, blend in cornstarch and water and simmer for 2 minutes. Correct seasoning, and serve.

Be sure to try this for your family, they will love it.

Bon Appetit!!